![]() “The Chinese say it has always been their property.” “The locals are afraid to go out to the west because there are a lot of Chinese boats-military vessels,” said Edwin Seracarpio, a 52-year-old boat owner whom I found one bright morning waiting port-side for the return of one of his crews. Fishermen who enter waters that their forebears freely traversed for generations nowadays find themselves at risk in a disputed no-man’s-land. Residents of outposts like Palawan, which sits along the eastern edge of the nine-dash line, already feel besieged. An observation from the 16th century-“Whoever is lord of Malacca has his hand on the throat of Venice”-still conveys the region’s maritime importance. Since 2012, it has been embossed in new passports issued to the country’s citizens.Īlso known as the cow’s tongue, for the way it dangles from China’s southern coast, the line encloses a region through which roughly 40 percent of the world’s trade and a great majority of China’s imported oil passes, via the Strait of Malacca, as through the eye of a needle. The line has no international standing and had gone largely unremarked upon until China recently revived it. Moving with ever greater boldness, Beijing has begun pressing claims to ownership of more than 80 percent of the South China Sea, waters enclosed by what it calls its “nine-dash line,” a relic of the country’s early-20th-century nationalist era, when it was first sketched to indicate China’s view of its traditional prerogatives. Its origin lies in China’s intensifying efforts to remake the maritime borders of this region, just as surely as Russia is remaking Europe’s political map in places like Crimea and Ukraine-only here the scale is vastly larger, the players more numerous, and the complexity greater. But more recently, it has begun to earn more-ominous comparisons to another part of Europe, a fragmented region that was the famous trigger for the First World War: the Balkans.Ī mere 25 miles off the shore of Palawan sits the frontier of an increasingly dangerous and unpredictable struggle. In past times, historians of the region went so far as to call the long waterway that encompasses both the East China Sea and the South China Sea the Mediterranean of East Asia. The shore-hugging seas of this part of the world, from the southern tip of the Korean peninsula to the Indonesian archipelago, have always served as a kind of open freeway for culture, trade, and ceaseless migration. The signs on the small shops and restaurants that line them are almost as likely to be in Korean, Vietnamese, or Chinese as in the Filipino language Tagalog. Just inland from the shore, narrow, crowded streets thrum with the put-put of motorized rickshaws. From nearby berths, fishermen set out to sea for days at a time aboard their bancas, the simple, low-slung catamarans they have favored for generations. On Sundays, they fill with people dressed up for church. ![]() In the tranquil harbors that dot the coastline of Palawan, a sword-shaped island in the western Philippines, the ferry boats are crowded with commuters traveling back and forth between sleepy townships, and with vendors bearing fresh produce.
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